The Benefits of Black Tea

The Black Tea we drink deserves some more credit. Black Tea is not only rich in antioxidants, but it's also great for our hair, skin and health. Black tea contains ten times more antioxidants than found in fruits & vegetables. Since Black Tea comes from the same Camellia Sinensis plant as does all tea, we can expect it to have similar benefits like green & white teas. A lot of research has been done on the health benefits of green tea. Due to this reason, many consider green tea to be more beneficial than Black Tea. However, this isn't necessarily so. Recent studies have shown that there are a number of benefits of Black Tea. Some of the health benefits of Black Tea are as follows: 

• Black Tea is specially useful for those suffering from diabetes, as it's known to lower the level of glucose in the blood. 
• Black Tea is said to help one cope with stress better by controlling the level of hormones in the body. 
• Black Tea expands the air passages. Hence, it facilitates breathing in those who suffer from asthma. 
• Black Tea increases metabolism & helps burn fat faster. 
• Black Tea is known to have anti-aging properties. 

Benefits of Black Tea for Hair:

• Contains more caffeine than a cup of coffee, which caffeine inhibits DHT (a hormone that is responsible for hair loss). 
• Known to reduce shedding & breakage 
• Can increase the thickness of your hair 
• Can darken the hair or enhance natural highlights
• Can add shine, luster and softness to the hair

If you are considering incorporating Black Tea into your daily regimen, here's a few starters:

• Use Black Tea as a Herbal Rinse. Apply Rinse after shampooing, rub into scalp & leave in. Some naturals do a Final Rinse. Some move on to applying Leave-In. It's up to you. 
• Add Black Tea to your ACV Rinses, or even substitute the ACV Rinse with the Black Tea Rinse. 
• Add some Black Tea to your daily moisturizers.

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The Art of Saving Money with Homemade Recipes

I know my project junkies will agree -- you can spend hundreds of dollars testing out numerous products available on the market, many of which are supposedly intended for natural hair use. However, breaking the bank shouldn't be a necessity for healthy, strong natural hair. I know one of the big factors for me going natural was to actual save money -- no more having to take weekly trips to the salon, no more having to buy expensive packs of Remy hair.. goodbye to all of that. I'll admit.. I've spent a few bucks here & there purchasing new products to try, but usually all my key ingredients needed for my hair are right in my own kitchen. 

Creating your own hair recipes not only keeps money in your pocket, but it allows for a more intimate relationship with your hair. You now gain a much better insight as to what your hair craves, prefers or rejects with your at-home experiments. When I'm bored, I like to get creative. So I want to share with you ladies a few tips to finding your own perfect hair concoctions:

• Don't mix too many things at once. I personally like the start with simple recipes. This way it's much easier to determine what works & what doesn't when your ingredient list is limited. 
• Try starting out with two-ingredient mixes until you find a mix that works well on your hair. When I first went natural, I already had two ingredients I felt could get me started along my natural hair journey: Water + EVOO. I mixed the two & used it until my spritz bottle was done. I learned my hair loved both ingredients, so in my next batch I added a new ingredient: Argan Oil. If you find a mix that works great on your hair, continue using it. If it's just okay, retry with a new ingredient until you reach perfection. 
• If there's a particular ingredient that you find always works well on your hair, make it a staple to your hair recipes, adding it as a standard part of all your recipes. For me, I try to incorporate EVOO into anything that touches my hair since my hair loves it so much. 
• Alternate the way you apply the mixes to your hair. This is how I figure what recipes work best on dry hair and which ones work best on wet hair. Once again it's a game of trial & error until you find something that works best for you. 
• Take note of what works for you & how it worked. Some recipes may be better for deep conditioning while others make great for clarifying. 
• Do your research! If you're hectic about putting bananas in your hair, make use of resources available to you before doing so. This was how I found out that using banana baby food works just as well as using a regular banana. Search through blogs & forums for your particular ingredients. You'll find others who have probably tried the same type of recipe share their success or horror stories. 
• Take a trip to your local grocery store & explore! I don't think anyone gets as excited as I do now whenever I pass a Whole Foods or a GNC. I encourage you all to experiment with essential oils and powders that you wouldn't normally find at your beauty supply or drug stores. 

So remember, a recipe failure is a good thing -- it's just your hair letting you know that it doesn't respond well to certain ingredients. The worst thing that can happen is you'll need to rewash your hair, so I encourage you all to get creative!

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The Benefits of Bananas for Hair

I did my first banana DC this week using banana baby food + EVOO + honey. Left it on for a couple of hours and when I rinsed it out I was totally amazed at just how awesome my hair felt. It had an awesome shine to it, felt soft as ever and added volume to my hair. Needless to say, I'm definitely going to be doing this DC biweekly. I wanted to share with you ladies the benefits of using bananas for the hair. I know when I first became natural I saw a lot of recipes that included using a banana but never had a full understanding of why.

Bananas are rich in potassium, natural oils, carbohydrates and vitamins that help in softening the hair and protects the hair's natural elasticity preventing split ends and breakage. Bananas when used for hair has a number of benefits such as it creates manageability, shine, growth and controls dandruff. These are simply the best for hair and the scalp.

Bananas enhance the strength, endurance and shine of the hair. Bananas are full of vitamins and is a number one ingredient for strengthening and volumizing the hair. It helps in repairing dry and sun-damaged hair. The damages that are caused to the hair by exposure to the dirt, pollution and other environmental toxins can be treated with the banana mask. It helps in protecting the hair from further damage. The vitamin B helps in the prevention of split ends. The type of hair that is suitable for this treatment are dry hair, dyed hair and for hair after perm. It also serves as an excellent treatment for addressing the problem of dandruff and is helpful in retaining moisture on your scalp.

What are some hair recipes you do that include bananas? 


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The Ayurvedic Breakdown

As of recently I've been thinking about trying to incorporate Ayurvedic treatments into my regimen for the Fall so I've been doing a lot of research on the subject that I will start sharing with the blog. Nonetheless, one of the first things that threw me off about Ayurvedic treatments was all the powders. If you had to ask me how to pronounce them, I doubt I'd say it correctly, so of course I had to research what each of these powders do. After reading through several forums, I've gotten a list of common herb powders a lot of other female naturals seem to use in their regimens & will discuss what each one does.

Alma 
Known for having the highest content of vitamin C, Alma is especially good for boosting the immune system. In hair care, Alma is used in oil infused tonics or in powder form to provide added strength to hair toots, bring luster to hair, encourage hair growth and addresses premature greying. In skin care, face masks using Alma paste provides nourishment to skin thereby assisting with dullness of skin.

Bhringraj 
Bhringraj is an ancient ayurvedic herb widely known for its effectiveness against hair ailments. In ayurveda, the herb is used for treating hair loss, improving hair texture, and to stop premature balding and graying and various skin allergies. Alopecia sufferers will also find bhringraj to be beneficial in promoting hair regrowth. Even without suffering any ailments, bhringraj aids in luxurious hair growth.

Infusing bhringraj in an oil such as coconut or sesame oil to massage onto the scalp will help with baldness and can cause a regrowth of hair. Use as a paste in combination with amla, brahmi, shikakai, tulsi, and/or neem to see wonderful growth and hair conditioning benefits.

Brahmi 
Brahmi is best known traditionally for its rejuvenating properties affecting brain cells and bringing improvements to memory functions. For hair care, Brahmi is best used in combination with alma, bhringraj, shikakai, tulsi &/or neem powders to provide not only stronger roots, but also thicker hair and relieft from itchy scalps. Brahmi can be used in a paste, a tea spritz for hair or in an oil infusion.

Cassia 
Cassia, also known as neutral henna, is used by many who want the benefits of conditioning that comes from henna, but without dramatic color changes. Cassia will turn gray hairs a pale blondish color, but shows no color difference on darker hair.

Henna
Henna works to stop breakage by strengthening the hair shaft. Henna also works to seal and repair the cuticle which makes for more manageable hair, a plus when it comes to detangling. Although Henna is mainly known as a mega strengthener, Henna has conditioning properties as well, which leaves the hair shiny, soft and fully of body.

Hibiscus Petal
In Ayurveda, Hibiscus (Jaswand) is known as one of the best secrets to beautiful and healthy hair. Hibiscus promotes hair growth, stops hairfall, gives hair a healthy luster with bounce, and delays premature graying. Hibiscus has been a wonderful ingredient in hair treatments that combine other ayurvedic herbs such as alma and brahmi. For henna color treatments, hibiscus is used to achieve a burgandy to black cherry color on hair. It is also slightly acidic and helps to aid in a faster henna dye release. As a drinkable tea, hibiscus is a natural body coolant and makes a great refreshing drink. Even better is using hibiscus powdersad in a tea rinse for hair!

Kapur Kachri
Kapur Kachri promotes growth by stimulating the roots. It also has antiseptic properties benefitting to the scalp.

Kalpi Tone

Kalpi Tone works to strengthen hair at the root and hair shaft, as well as promote hair growth. It leaves your hair noticeably stronger, softer and full of body.

Neem Powder
Neem is known in Ayurveda for its powerful effectiveness in fighting diseases. Its properties are naturally antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral.

In skin care, a paste made with neem will remove excess oils from the face and clear pimples. It will also aid with scars. When used in a soap or oil, neem can help to relieve dry skin as well as the itchiness and redness from eczema. In a salve or cream, neem's antiseptic properties aid in healing cuts and minor wounds. Using neem to make a tea or face mask will help to treat acne.

In hair care, neem promotes shiny, healthy hair, combats dryness of scalp, and fights scalp infections and dandruff. Undiluted neem oil will help treat head lice.

Orange Peel

The properties in orange peels are primarily antioxidant and astringent, making orange peel powder a natural in helping to prevent pimples and acne as well as prevent premature aging and wrinkling. Using orange peel powder in a face mask helps to reduce shine from excess oil and remove dead skin cells.

Reetha

Reetha, commonly known as soapnuts, is a natural cleanser. Soapnuts have gentle insecticidal properties and are traditionally used for removing lice from the scalp.

Shikakai 
Shikakai is an herb known in ayurveda for its cleansing properties and natural mild foaming properties. Literally meaning "fruit for hair", it has been traditionally used for beautiful and healthy hair as a mild shampoo. Shikakai has anti-dandruff properties and is known to aid with detangling of hair. Mixing shikakai with amla promotes hair strengthening and conditioning. This naturally astringent herb will also promote a healthy scalp and stronger roots.

Best for all hair types. However, for hair that is prone to dryness, shikakai is best used sparingly and mixed with an additional herb, such as amla.

Tulsi

Tulsi, or Holy Basil, is known to promote health and for having healing properties. It is a purifying herb and additionally has antiseptic properties. The powder form has a purifying action for the blood. It addresses all sorts of skin diseases when prepared properly, such as ringworm, skin eruptions, scabies, eczema, minor wounds, itching, and scalp irritations and infections. In beauty, tulsi is effective in removing blemishes, treating acne, and for removing dirt deep in pores.

Now that I'm a little more familiar with what each does, I will begin experimenting with them as the months pass. I still have to do my Henna + Alma mix, so I guess that's a great place to start.

Do you use an Ayurvedic Regimen for your hair? If so, what are some ingredients? 


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All About Bentonite Clay

I've been hearing more and more about Bentonite Clay & after seeing some in Whole Foods, I'm considering purchasing it. From what I've been reading, Bentonite Clay is great for not only your hair, but your skin as well. Bentonite Clay is packed with over 70 naturally occurring trace minerals that when mixed with water, swells and draws out dirt, oils, toxins and any other impurities like a sponge. This alone basically had me sold, especially when it comes to my skin. 

• Bentonite Clay is excellent for rejuvenating & cleansing the skin. Topical applications are helpful for acne, eczema, psoriasis, rashes, wound healing and help draw poison from ant, bee, wasp and similar bug stings and bites. It draws excess oils and debris to the surface, boosts circulation to tighten the skin and stimulate blood flow and whisk away dead skin cells that can clog pores. 
• Bentonite Clay can be applied topically to skin and wounds or taken orally to draw toxins and impurities out the body quickly. It removes poisons and intestinal parasites out of the intestinal tract while alkalizing the body. 
• Bentonite is a swelling clay. When it is mixed with water, it rapidly swells open like a highly porous sponge. From here the toxins are drawn into the sponge through electrical attraction and once there, they are bound. 
• Bentonite Clay may also be used like a shampoo, trapping and removing dirt, debris, build up and other particles from your hair & scalp. 

I've come across several different DIY recipes I will be sharing with you ladies using Bentonite Clay for your hair, face & body. I will be going back out to Whole Foods this week and purchasing a bottle, or getting it from my best friend. I'm more tempted to try this on my skin then anything. I have heard nothing but great reviews from it from other natural hair ladies, as they mention their hair is usually easier to tangle, softer & shinier after using the Bentonite so I am excited to try.

Have you used Bentonite Clay for your hair & skin? Did you love the results? 


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The Mizani Natural Curl Key

I know one of the biggest confusions within the natural hair community seems to be figuring out what 'hair type' you are. September 2 marks my 6th months of being natural & honestly, I still am unable to properly identify my hair type. My hair towards the back tends to go towards the 3c type, while the rest of my head tends to dabble in the 4a or 4b type. But like I said, I honestly still don't know. I figure as I continue along my natural hair journey as my hair continues to grow, I'll be able to have a better look at my curl patterns. Nonetheless, I've wanted to share with you girls another hair classification type I came across this time from MIZANI.

With the support of their world renowned scientists in the United States and France, MIZANI has pioneered the Natural Curl Key. After years of research and testing, their laboratories defined global hair types based on specific-shape criteria and utilizing a scientific approach to measuring features of human-hair strands, including curve diameter, curl index, number of twists and number of waves. This research resulted in the identification of eight distinct hair types worldwide.

I will only be talking about five of the eight hair types today, but feel free to visit HERE for more information on their Natural Curl Key.

Type IV - Curly
Defined, mixed curl patterns: loops to spirals; ringlets to corkscrews
TEXTURE: Thin to thick
GROWTH PATTERN: Grows down from the scalp, then curls
BODY / VOLUME: Body, volume and bounce
ELASTICITY: Moderate stretching with moderate return
POROSITY: Slightly raised to raised cuticle. Prone to fizz.

Type V - Very Curly 
Defined curl with S-shapes forming into coils
TEXTURE: Thin to thick or combination
GROWTH PATTERN: Grows down from the scalp, then curls
BODY / VOLUME: Reduced volume with some movement. Prone to be compact. ELASTICITY: Stretching with minimal return
POROSITY: Raised cuticle. Likely to frizz and tangle.

Type VI - Coiled
Loose afro – medium coils close to the scalp
TEXTURE: Thin to thick or combination
GROWTH PATTERN: Grows up and away from the scalp, then curls
BODY / VOLUME: Some volume. Likely to be compact, less movement. ELASTICITY: Stretching with minimal return
POROSITY: Raised cuticle. Some frizz, tangled.

Type VII - Very Coiled
Tight afro – distinct, springy coils closer to scalp
TEXTURE: Thin to thick or combination
GROWTH PATTERN: Curls directly from the scalp
BODY / VOLUME: Minimal volume. Some compaction, no movement. ELASTICITY: Stretching with minimal return
POROSITY: Raised cuticle. Frizzy, tangled and prone to knot.

Type VIII - Zig-Zag Coiled
Extremely tight afro – interlocking coils and zig-zag patterns
TEXTURE: Thin to thick or combination
GROWTH PATTERN: Curls directly from the scalp
BODY / VOLUME: Compact with no movement
ELASTICITY: Stretching with minimal return
POROSITY: Raised cuticle. Frizzy, tangled with some knots.


The thing I've noticed about my hair when wet & without products its about a Type V. But there are days where, unfortunately I neglect my hair & won't moisturize it & it can turn into a Type VI & VII real fast.

What's your hair type based on the Mizani Natural Curl Key? 

The Benefits of Scalp Massages

I can't keep my hands out of my hair, I'll admit it. Not an hour goes by where I have played in my hair; I'm either doing a two strand twist to take out immediately after, twisting my curls or massaging parts of my scalp. Since my hands stay in my hair, the blood is constantly circulating through my scalp. But it wasn't until last night that I found this great article & video from All Things O'Natural explaining the benefit of a scalp massage & how to correctly give yourself one.

Kyah Alexandria - How to Give a Productive Scalp Massage 

Scalp Massage: The Benefits

• Reduces Stress Levels: General tension and stress can inhibit blood flow to your head causing headaches, eye-strain, poor concentration, hair loss, depression and other symptoms. A soothing head and scalp massage provides instant relief.
• Relieves headaches
• Increases blood flow: This is especially helpful with scalp massage, because it doesn't just benefit the skin and scalp itself, but also the hair follicles and hair. This increased blood flow can stimulate the follicles in such a way that hair will grow faster, which is a great benefit for those who wish to increase the length of their locks. Scalp massage can also strengthen hair follicles which, in turn, strengthens the entire hair shaft. Often this type of massage is accompanied by special oils that are applied to the scalp and hair to provide increased nourishment and work with the hair's natural oils to repair dryness and breakage. This is great for massage or hair clients who suffer from chronic flaking and itching caused by a dry scalp. The special scalp oils may also be scented with either a relaxing mix of aromatic herbs or something more stimulating for those looking for an energy boost.
• Relaxation: Conduct a scalp massage with hair oil before going off to sleep. This will help relax the mind and achieve sound sleep.

Great Carrier and Essential Oil Blends for Scalp Massage:

Dandruff and Dry Scalp: 
Jojoba, Tea Tree, Neem, Avacado and Vitamin E oils (per 4 oz bottle, add 2oz of Jojoba and 2 oz of Avacado Carrier Oils. Add 5 drops of Tee Tree, Neem and Vitamin E oils, warm or apply room temperature. Massage. Enjoy)

Peaceful Sleep: 
Grapeseed, Jojoba, Sandalwood, Lavender, Chamomile oils (per 4 oz. bottle, add 2 oz of Grapeseed Oil and 2 oz. Jojoba Oil. Add 5 drops of Lavender, Sandalwood and Chamomile Oils. Apply warm or at room temperature. Massage. Enjoy)

Stimulating Scalp Massage: 
Jojoba, Sweet Almond, Peppermint, Sweet Orange, Vitamin E oils. {per 4oz bottle, combine 2 oz. Jojoba and 2 oz Sweet Almond oils. Add 5 drops of Peppermint, Sweet Orange and Vitamin E oils. Apply warm or at room temperature. Massage. Enjoy)

via All Things O'Natural

Hair Q&A: Can I Co-Wash My Hair Daily?

Q: Can I co-wash my hair daily?

A: One of the biggest questions I had after immediately cutting my hair was wanting to know if I'd be able to co-wash it daily. I understood the concept of a Wash & Go, but wasn't use to the concept of actually washing my hair everyday. Could my hair take that? Well, there was only one way to find out. I ended up co-washing my hair everyday with Aussie Moist Conditioner & my hair absolutely loved it. As my hair is slowly growing, I find myself not wanting to wash it daily because now it takes even longer to dry so I've cut my daily washing down to 2-3x a week.

So with that being said -- my best answer is it's really up to you. I know if you're going through a TWA phase, washing your hair daily can be totally refreshing as you can just wash & go. Plus, with it being short this is a great time to really experiment with different products and find what your hair likes and dislikes. Just be sure you're using a conditioner that is water soluble so you don't have a lot of build up.

Hair Type Classifications

[Source]

One of the important things when going natural is being able to correctly identify you hair type. Knowing what type of hair you have will make your whole journey a lot easier as you're able to find products that cater especially to your hair type. When I first when natural back in April, I was completely confused about this hair type classification system & didn't realize that your hair could consist of more than one hair type as mine does.  So I did some research & I found this great article on NaturallyCurly that pretty much broke down the types for me. The hair types include: Hair Type 2 (a-c), Hair Type 3 (a-c) & Hair Type 4 (a&b). I'm going to breakdown Hair Type 3c & 4a & b, since these seem to be the most common types found within our African American sisters.

Hair Type 3c - Curly Kinky 

• Type 3c hair has tight curls in corkscrews with the circumference similar to that of a pencil or straw. The curls can either be kinky or very tightly curled with lots and lots of strands densely packed together. The very tight curls are usually fine in texture.
• Hair Type 3c Celebrities: Heather Headley, Alicia Keys, Jada Pinkett-Smith

Hair Type 4 - Kinky 

• Type 4 is kinky or very tightly curly with a clearly visible curl pattern. The circumference is usually crochet needle or even smaller. The hair is very wiry, very tightly coiled and very, very fragile. Type 4 hair can range from fine/thin to wiry/coarse with lots and lots of strands densely packed together. This type of hair has fewer cuticle layers than any other type of hair, which means that is has less natural protection from the damage you inflict by combing, brushing, curling, blow drying and straightening. This hair type is known to shank up to 75% of the actual hair length.
• Two types of 4 subtypes:
• 4a: Tightly coiled hair that, when stretched has an "S" pattern much like curly hair. It tends to have more moisture than 4b & has a definite curl pattern.
• Hair Type 4a Celebrities: Macy Gray, Monique Coleman, Leela Jameas 
• 4b: Has a "Z" pattern, less of a defined curl pattern. Instead of curling or coiling, the hair in sharp angles like the letter "Z"; has a cotton-like feel to it.
• Hair Type 4a Celebrities: Esperanza Spalding, Jill Scoot, Erykah Badu

A few tips to keep in mind for your 3c &/or 4a/b Hair:

• Use styling creams, butters and oils for type 4 hair
• This hair type needs extra moisture and tender-loving care because it can be fragile
• Detangle hair with a lot of conditioner in your hair and use a comb or detangling brush
• Let hair air dry or use a hood dryer
• Do not use a brush or comb on your dry curls
• Reduce tangles by sleeping on a satin pillowcase or wrap hair in a satin cap

via NaturallyCurly

All About Henna

Although I haven't tried it yet, I've been getting a lot of questions regarding coloring natural hair with Henna. So until I have one of my lovely guest bloggers write up a lovely review & tutorial of Henna, I figure we could still be enlightened on the subject matter.

By Nicole Hollis of Hair Liberty

Henna is a plant that grows in the hot, dry climates of the Eastern hemisphere. For decades, women from North Africa, India, and the Middle East have used henna to stain their hair, skin, and nails. The red henna dye is contained within the leaves of the plant. After the plant is harvested, the leaves are dried, ground and sifted into a flour-like powder. In the last few years, henna has become a popular treatment option for African American women seeking more natural remedies for their hair. Here are the most frequently asked questions.

Is henna safer than commercial hair dye?
Yes, but it's very important that you only use 100% pure henna. Low-quality henna mixtures may contain additives like PPD to make the dye stain stronger and darker. Dye additives may cause allergy problems or react with chemicals that have been previously applied to your hair. Unfortunately, the FDA has approved henna for use as a hair dye, but does not regulate its safety. So, the seller of the henna is the only person who really knows the purity of what you're purchasing. Mehandi.com and LUSH Cosmetics are two suppliers known for high quality.

Henna is gentler on your hair than permanent hair color because it only deposits dye onto the surface, not inside the cortex. The effects from henna are most similar to semi-permanent hair color. Both are safe enough for fragile African American hair.

Can I get the same color results using henna as with commercial hair dye?
Maybe. Pure henna leaf powder can only produce a red to orange-red color. Different crops (depending on location) produce different levels of red, ranging from auburn to cherry. If you see henna advertised as producing black or brown shades that means the henna has been mixed with some other herb or product. For example, henna is commonly mixed with cocoa powder to produce reddish brown.

Since henna is a depositing dye, it cannot lighten your hair...only bleach can do that. If your natural hair color is dark black, henna may not show up at all or it may produce a red shimmer.

If your natural hair color is dark brown or lighter (including grey), you are likely to see a color change after your first henna application. The color should be subtle, but it will increase in intensity after every treatment.

If your hair is bleached or relaxed, your hair is more porous. Porous hair absorbs chemicals more easily and the henna dye may absorb into the hair cortex instead of just coating the outer shaft. The color may still be subtle, but definitely noticeable in direct light.

Henna is a very inexact method of coloring your hair. If you really want a substantial change in hair color, you're better off visiting a professional cosmetologist.

Will Henna loosen natural African American coils?
Sometimes. A quick Internet search produces thousands of results on the subject. The only thing we know for sure is that everybody's experience is different. If you want to loosen your natural coils, you can definitely experiment with henna. Any effect will be gradual. Most women who report looser curls say that it took 3 or more treatments to see any difference. However, if you truly wish to transform Type 4 coils to looser curls, a chemical treatment (applied by a professional cosmetologist) will deliver more significant and uniform results.

How do I get the most out of my henna treatment?
First, purchase your henna from a reputable supplier (see above). To get the most value for your money, choose pure henna with high dye content. Typically, 100 grams of pure henna only contains 2 or 3 grams of dye. The rest is just ground up henna leaves. So, for the most effective treatments, you definitely want the highest dye content available. Ask your supplier which henna they recommend to cover greys because that usually means maximum dye content.

When working with pure henna, the liquid that you use to help the dye release can impact the treatment results. An acidic liquid will help the dye release faster. Aloe vera juice is a great choice because its pH is low enough to smooth your hair's cuticles without making your strands stiff or dry.

Henna hair treatments have been done by North African and Indian women for decades with little to no instruction. Unless you're really hoping to achieve curl loosening or a color change, feel free to experiment by adding Ayurvedic herbs to your mix (supplier websites usually offer plenty of recipes). When attempting to change your curl pattern or hair color, keep it simple and just add an acidic liquid. A batch of high dye content henna can quickly become low dye content if you add too many oils and herbs to the mix.

If this is all sounding like too much guess work, try one of the pre-mixed henna bars from LUSH. They combine henna, lemon juice, cocoa butter, and herbs into one firm block that you just have to melt in a bowl of water.

The biggest advantage with henna is that you can do it yourself. Your henna supplier will give you all the instructions you need for a successful treatment. Whether your hair is natural or relaxed, a properly applied henna can add shine and softness to your hair. You can't count on any other benefits, but feel free to try it a few times and see what you get!

All About Hair Conditioners

The thing that surprised me when I first went natural was that you do not wash your hair with shampoo.. Well, at least not as often as I was once bamboozled into believing. When I used to wash my hair with both shampoo & conditioner, I'd never really allow the recommended time to leave conditioner in a chance. By the time I got to the conditioner portion of my hair wash my arms were fatigue from having to spend the last thirty or so minutes washing my shampooed hair at least three times. So once I went natural, I stumbled across this great article from NaturallyCurly breaking down what exactly conditioner is & why is was so important.

by Tonya McKay of NaturallyCurly

Most of us with curly hair are pretty well-versed now in the need for our hair to be very well hydrated and conditioned. But what exactly does this mean? There are so many products on the market that claim to be the solution for our dry, frizzy tresses, but which do we really need? Plentiful also are the words used by marketers and hair care experts when telling us what we need for our hair to be healthy and beautiful. Among these are humectant, moisturizer, emollient, detangler, reconstruct/repair, and color protecting. What do these terms really mean, and what ingredients should we be looking for if we desire some of these properties?

There are numerous types of conditioners available in the marketplace, so we will examine some of the more common categories. My hope is to aid the consumer in understanding what the proposed benefit of a particular type of conditioner is and also what ingredients can be expected to help achieve the desired outcome.

Types of Conditioners:

Moisturizing
Moisturizing conditioners are ones that help retain and/or add moisture, i.e. water, to hair. These types of conditioners rely heavily upon the properties of ingredients such as humectants, fatty alcohols, light oils such as aloe or jojoba, and frequently vitamins such as panthenol (which also act as humectants). Oils or polymers that form an occlusive film on the surface of the hair are also often found in these products, as they aid in moisture retention in the interior of the hair shaft.

Some ingredients you might see in a moisturizing conditioner:

• Glycerol
• Propylene glycol
• Panthenol
• Erithritol
• Sodium PCA
• Hyaluronic acid
• Sorbitol
• Fructose
• Fatty Alcohols
• Polyquaternium polymers
• Cationic Surfactants (Cetrimonium Chloride, Dicetyldimonium Chloride)

Deep Conditioners
Deep conditioners, repairing conditioners, and reconstructors all generally have a few properties in common. They contain significant amounts of proteins, hydrolyzed proteins, and amino acids, which can penetrate through the cuticle and absorb into the hair where they can add strength to the existing complex protein-based composite inside the hair shaft. These ingredients can also adhere to the surface of the hair and act as patches over areas that have been depleted of protein.

Well-formulated deep conditioners also contain oils, esters, or fatty acids, called emollients. These ingredients help to soften the hair and add elasticity to it. This is especially important when proteins are being used, as they can make hair very hard and brittle.

Hot oil treatments contain only or mostly oils, which penetrate into the hair after topical application by placing the client under heat. Some people enjoy the result they get from treatments such as these. However, the use of heat on hair should always be undertaken with caution, in my opinion.

Key ingredients in deep conditioning products:

• Proteins
• Hydrolyzed proteins
• Amino acids
• Plant oils
• Mineral oil
• Silicones (dimethicone and derivatives)
• Esters (glyceryl stearate, isopropyl palmitate)
• Fatty acids (coconut fatty acid, stearic acid, lauric acid)

Acidifying
Acidifying conditioners have a pH in the range of 3.0 – 4.0, rendering them slightly more acidic than most other conditioners (which are typically formulated to have a pH in the range of 4.0-5.0). These types of conditioners have a few benefits. Acidifying rinses or conditioners lower the pH of hair to or slightly below its isoelectric point (estimated to be at a pH between 3.0-3.7), which is its ideal state. At the isoelectric point the cuticle is tightly sealed, the keratin proteins possess no residual electrostatic charge, and the hair shaft is thought to be harder and in the state most protected from the environment.

Some ingredients used in acidifying conditioners:

• Behentrimonium chloride
• Stearalkonium chloride
• Amine oxides
• Cetrimonium chloride
• Citric acid
• Ascorbates
• Citrus extracts

Detanglers and Leave-in Conditioners
These types of conditioners are generally lighter than moisturizing and deep conditioners and contain a greater amount of water in the formula than do other products. Heavy oils and proteins are not typically part of these conditioners, but instead they rely upon lighter ingredients.

Detanglers and leave-in conditioners work by depositing small amounts of materials on the surface of the hair that act in a variety of ways to minimize friction when combing. Humectants are often used in these formulations for their moisture attraction and retention properties. Other ingredients are selected because they neutralize residual negative charge at the surface of the hair (cationic polymers, cationic surfactants). Some of the ingredients are included because they form a smooth film on the surface that provides lubrication and eases the force required for combing through the wet hair (dimethicone, amodimethicone, fatty alcohols). Silicones have an added benefit of leaving a smooth, highly reflective film on the surface of the hair, which imparts a high amount of gloss and shine.

Typical ingredients found in detanglers and leave-in conditioner:

• Amodimethicone
• Cyclomethicone
• Propylene glycol
• Panthenol
• Botanical extracts
• Glycerin
• Glucose/Sucrose
• Panthenol
• Cetrimonium chloride
• Polyquaternium-11
• Fatty alcohols

Color Protecting
Color protection conditioners typically will contain moisturizing agents, protein (or derivatives thereof) for filling in gaps left by damage from the coloring process, oils or fatty alcohols, and compounds that act as UV absorbers. Both UVA and UVB radiation can cause damage to hair and loss of color, so many products will try to include ingredients that can absorb in both regions. UVA protection is critical for those with chemically colored hair, especially red hues, as it is most susceptible to these rays.

UV absorbing ingredients found in hair care products:

• Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
• Benzophenone
• Polymers, such as Polyamide-2
• Salicylates
• PABA
• Dimethylparamidopropyl laurdimonium tosylate

Thermal Protection
Some conditioners are designed to protect hair from heat damage that can occur when blow drying or styling with flat irons and curling irons. These products almost always rely upon the thermal insulating properties of silicone polymers.

Ingredients that protect from thermal damage:

• Dimethicone
• Dimethiconol
• Amodimethicone
• Cyclomethicone

Many conditioners will combine different categories of ingredients, in order to have multiple attributes. Many leave-in conditioners will have sunscreen additives in them. Color protection conditioners may also contain silicones meant to impart gloss and also provide added protection against heat damage. Daily conditioners may include proteins or protein derivatives in order to combat day-to-day damage. So, when choosing a product, really look at the label and determine what the major components are and what you can expect the primary function of that product to be.

The role of conditioning agents, emollients, moisturizers, humectants, and proteins are to fill in the gaps where structural damage has occurred to the surface and interior of the hair, to bring moisture into the hair or to increase moisture retention, to impart suppleness and elasticity, and to provide lubrication along the hair shaft. All of these functions help to minimize mechanical and environmental damage that occurs through daily combing, styling, washing, and exposure to the elements. Thus, conditioners are powerful and essential products that make the hair more attractive, softer and more manageable, and less likely to incur new damage. As the hair is protected by daily use, new hair can grow in and remain healthy and strong, so while conditioners may not be able to truly repair and reconstruct a damaged hair strand, they do indeed provide much benefit.

Which conditioners do you use that you'd recommend to others? 

Natural Hair Terminology

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I know when I first went natural there were so many terms & acronyms that I did not understand pertaining to natural hair. So with the help of CurlyNikki Forums, these are some of the definitions to those once confusing terms.

2nd Say Hair: Hair that looks good (at least decent) when you wake up the next morning...you don't have to do much before walking out of the house. Some are lucky enough to get 3rd and 4th day hair!

3abc/4a/4b/4c: A hair type classification system.

ACV: Apple Cider Vinegar (used to seal cuticle...final rinse) A hair type classification system.

APL: Arm Pit Length; Refers to length.

BAA: Big Ass Afro

Baggy: After you moisturize your hair at night, you put a shopping bag, plastic cap, shower cap on overnight.

BC: Big Chop; Cutting off all your chemically treated hair.

BNC: Braid-n-Curl; Simply plait or braid the hair and roll the ends on rods or flexis.

BSL: Bra Strap Length; Refers to length.

BSS: Beauty Supply Store

CBL: Collar Bone Length; Refers to length.

Co-Wash: Using conditioner to wash the hair in place of shampoo

Cones: Are 'silicones', or ingredients found in hair care products that are not water soluble (i.e. you need shampoo to remove). Failure to wash out cones may lead to build-up, which may result in dry hair and breakage (due to suffocation of the strands).

CG: Refers to the "Curly Girl" method explained in the book by Lorraine Massey. It is a philosophy for curls that involves, no or low shampoo, cone avoidance, and conditioner washing...among other things. These are just a few of the basic tenants.

DT or DC: Is a Deep Treatment or Conditioner. A DT is when you leave a moisturizing (or protein based, depending on your needs) conditioner on your hair for an extended period of time, along with a heat source to aid in penetration.

Dusting: Dusting your hair is a trim of 1/4 and inch or less. This method is also referred to as dusting because even though your hair is being trimmed evenly, it is so little hair, that it just looks like dust on the floor.

EO: Essential Oil

EVCO: Extra Virgin Coconut Oil (used in conditioning treatments)

EVOO: Extra Virgin Olive Oil (used in conditioning treatments)

HG: Holy Grail (Products that are tried and true)

HIH: Hand in Hair. Its a disease that causes you to always be manipulating your tresses.

MBL: Mid Back Length; Refers to length.

Nappyversary/Nattyversary: The anniversary of the day you became a natural

No-poo: It's just that- no shampoo. Ladies who follow this routine are CG'ers and don't use cones or other heavy/oily products that may need shampoo to remove. Instead of pooing, many ladies conditioner wash, or use conditioner in place of shampoo to cleanse the scalp.

Pineappling: A type of sleeping technique that curlies with long hair use to preserve/protect curls overnight so that they have great 2nd day hair. You gather all of your hair in a high, but loose pony tail at the top of your head and go to sleep on a satin pillowcase. In the morning you take it down and shake it out gently and all of your curls will have been preserved.

PJ: Product Junky or someone that buys any all hair care products in sight...forever on a mission to find the next best thing.

Plopping: A quick dry method. You use a t-shirt or a curl friendly material (terry cloth towel, paper towel) to dry your hair instead of rubbing a towel on your hair to dry it. It drastically decreases drying times.

Pre-pooing: A treatment applied prior to shampooing. It usually consists of oils and/or conditioners applied the night before the shampoo or immediately prior, with a heat source to help penetrate. This is usually performed to help the hair maintain necessary moisture during the drying shampoo process.

Sealing: Is essentially sealing moisture in the hair, specifically the ends. For sealing to be effective, you must first use a water-based moisturizer (a conditioner or cream that has water as its first ingredient), and then seal with a butter or oil. The molecules in most butters/oils are too large to pass into the hair, so they stick to the outside of the shaft, trapping in the rich goodness of the moisturizer. Reversing those 2 steps will lead to dry hair. Sealing has saved my hair.

Slip: Used to describe how slippery a product is (usually a conditioner or detangler)... the more slip it has, the more effectively it will coat the hair to aid in detangling.

SLS: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (found in the harsher shampoos- the main reason that CG'ers avoid poo).

TNC: Twist-n-Curl.

Transitioning: This is the period of time since one's last relaxer.

TWA: Teeny Weeny Afro

Twist Out: Two strand twist the hair, allow to dry either by air drying or sitting under a dryer, take the twists apart, and style.

Wash & Go: Simply co-wash your hair, add a styler (gel, cream) and GO You leave the hair to air dry or dry with a diffuser. Although this style is cute and easy, my ends couldn't handle it. This is also seen as WnG, and W&G.

A Glossary of Hair Product Terms

via Naturallycurly.com by Michelle Breyer;

[Source]

With so many different bottles, tubes and cans of hair products from which to choose, it can be difficult to figure out what they all do. Here is some help:

Anti-frizz gel or serum
See Straightening gel.

Anti-humectants
Any substance that repels moisture. They are used to prevent frizz.

Glaze
Another name for either a sculpturing lotion or a styling creme. Tends to add a lot of shine.

Hair Wax
Much like a styling pomade, with a firmer viscosity. These products tend to come in either pots or stick delivery systems. Use these products for defining only. Piece out individual curls or wisps of hair. Less is definitely more with wax, which tends to work better on shorter hair.

Humectants
Any substance that promotes the retention of water. Products that have humectant properties are a must for curly hair.

Mousse
Mousse products are a legacy form the 1980s, the era of big hair. They were developed to create weightless volume. These are products that are liquid in their packaged state and when dispensed, they become a foam. They give light to firm style support without weighing the hair down.

Molding Creme
They are great for adding volume at the root or to define curls. They tend to have a very thick viscosity and offer firm, flexible styling support. The tradeoff for this type of product is you do not get a great deal of shine. A molding creme, if properly applied, can be one of the most versatile products. But use a small amount. You can always add more as needed. They may be too thick for longer hair.

Pomade
These are styling gels with either a water-soluable or non-soluable wax base. These products are very thick in viscosity and tend to have the consistency of cold margarine or butter. They can be used for all styles seeking high definition, control and shine. remember that less is more with pomades, and make sure to emulsify the product in the hands before using. Pomades are especially good for African-American hair because they add moisture, control and shine.

Sculpturing lotions
A liquid based styling product that is great for taming curly hair. The liquid consistency allows the product to penetrate into the hair. They tend to have light to medium hold and can be used for setting hair, finger waving, braiding, scrunching and plaiting. Many African-American consumers find these products to be a lifesaver for taming flyaways and detangling.

Shine Spray
A mica-or silicone-based spray product that adds shine. They tend to have no holding properties. They are best used as the last step. Apply hair spray, all it to dry, then mist on the shine spray. Don’t touch your hair for the rest of the day. For curlyheads, look for a silicone-based spray because these aid in frizz control.

Smoothing gels or balms
Clear to translucent gels that come in a variety of viscosities. They tend to have little to no hold, but soften curl, balance moisture level and fight frizz. They can be added while styling to control flyaway and frizz or apply and use with a blow dryer and tension to smooth and straighten the hair. After you wash your hair, the curl will return. Always apply a smoothing balm first to the ends of the hair and work it up the hair shaft to the root. Silicone-based products will straighten hair, add shine and help to block outside humidity.

Spray gel
These products are like a styling gel, but in a different delivery system. They come in a variety of holds and were designed for people who do not want to get product on their hands. People with curly hair will find a spray gel very beneficial. the spray application helps to ensure a more even application without adding weight. these products are fantastic for adding before and during the drying process when people scrunch their hair. Spray, scrunch and let air dry or use a blow-dryer with a diffuser attachment.

Straightening cremes
Generally a lighter version of a straightening gel or balm. They are best for straightening fine hair or for providing light frizz control to medium and coarse hair.

Styling creme
A styling creme tends to offer pliable style support. They are opaque to translucent and come in a variety of holds and shine factors. These cremes tend to be best for adding definition to curls and texture for shorter styles. Just add a little bit at the fingertips and piece out individual curls. A medium to light hold creme is best for curly hair. these products also are a must for up-do work. Many times, these are two-in-one proudcts that condition as well as style.

Beginning A Healthy Hair Journey: What To Buy First?!

By: Jarmelia of DIY Hair Care Blog

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Beginning the journey to healthier natural hair can be an overwhelming process. Choosing the right products can be costly, time extensive and frustrating with so many options available. But it doesn't have to be a headache, if you pay close attention to ingredients.

Contrary to what many companies would like for us to think, most natural hair products contain the same ingredients and don't vary much from product to product. When you learn what ingredients your hair likes and dislikes, it will become 100x's easier to pick hair care products. You will know that if a product contains a certain ingredient high in the ingredient list, it may or not work well for your hair.

Here is a list of 6 must try first ingredients, all of them are under $10 each and can be mixed and matched to suit your hair type. These ingredients are found in almost every type of natural hair care product from leave-ins to shampoos!

1. Aloe Vera Juice
Aloe vera juice is a great pH balancer (pH of 4), and can soothe itchy off balance scalps, add much needed moisture to thirsty hair, and smooth the cuticle. Aloe vera juice is great as a spritz (has a light hold) or as a rinse after using a shampoo with a high pH. It can also be beneficial during the detangling process. You can order aloe vera juice online or get it from your local health food store.

2. Vegetable Glycerin
Vegetable glycerin often gets a bad rap because it is a humectant, and in certain environments can make hair hard, crunchy, or greasy. When used in certain formulations, however, vegetable glycerin can be your hair's best friend, attracting and helping to retain moisture.

3. Tea Tree Essential Oil
If you have scalp problems, let this essential oil become your best friend. One thing that many women complain about is an itchy, dandruff laden scalp. Tea tree oil is a great addition to your routine... add it to shampoos, conditioners, and even alongside carrier oils for a nice scalp massage.

4. Butters
Whether, you opt for shea butter (my love), mango butter or avocado butter, get you a butter and make a mix for your hair. You can use butters as moisturizers (mixed with other ingredients), sealants, etc. The world of butters is endless. You can use them in multiple ways from nourishing, to smoothing, to styling! Buy them in bulk and you can get enough to last at least a year!

5. Olive Oil
Olive oil is one of the best oils hands down. You can use this oil in many ways- - oil rinsing, scalp massages, moisturizing, sealing, and as a styling aide.

6. Coconut Oil
Just like Olive Oil, this oil can become your best friend. It's great for deep conditioning and as a leave in, and can be used to seal in the moisture from your conditioning treatments.

This is just a basic list, but once you find out how your hair reacts to these few ingredients, you will be able to quickly decide which hair products are worth your money and which ones aren't. You may not like an ingredient as a leave-in, but find that you love it mixed with your shampoo or rinse-out conditioner. Experiment and remember that using natural hair products doesn't have to be pricey or overwhelming! Keep it simple!

What are your favorite natural ingredients?